The Wade And Butcher "El Magnifico" Pressed Horn Straight Razor

Those of you who know me and who have read my postings know I have a special place in my heart reserved for Wade & Butcher straight razors.  Wade & Butcher, in its various incarnations, was one of the oldest, longest lived and best producers of shaving steel in all the history of the "modern" straight razor shave. But shaving blades were but a part of the Wade & Butcher product line.  The company was heavily involved in making all sorts of edged steel items.  A nice encapsulated history of the company and pictures of some of its extensive product line may be found here.

But I digress.  I wanted to take a moment to show you one of the "crown jewels" of the Vintage Shaving Shoppe.  This is a 7/8 "Patented Frameback" in the original box made by Wade & Butcher.  While the entire razor is a work of art, the highlight is the scales.  These are polished pressed horn with 100% of the gold lettering intact.  This is certainly a scarce straight razor in any condition, but you can spend a lifetime looking and never find one like this.  Try to keep the drooling to a minimum ;-)

Been A While...What Happened?

Friends and Clients,

You may have noticed the seeming absence of new postings over the last 3 months.  Well, I have a note from the teacher - I've been consulting out-of-town for a considerable length of time.  Rest assured that we are preparing some very special things for this holiday season.  Whether you celebrate Christmas, Hannukah, Ramadan or just enjoy the cold, clear nights of winter, we will have something that will be special to you.  Keep checking our store and ebay, particularly in a couple of weeks, for some very nice things.

Going...Going...Gone! Straight Razors Rapidly Vanishing.

Take it from me, someone who looks just about everywhere for razors - they are disappearing from all markets at an alarming rate.  Several years ago, you could go to a flea market, garage sale or antique shop and find some pretty nice straight razors virtually by the boxful - sort of like you can today with common pocket knives.  This is a burning hot market folks!  When I visit antique stores, indoor and outdoor markets all over the northeast and mid-Atlantic regions, I'm finding very little material of ANY quality. I'm not even finding razors at unreasonable prices.  The last weekend I spent looking yielded just ONE razor - and it wasn't anything impressive.

The bad news is that those of you who haven't been buying have missed the "ground floor" opportunity to buy nice razors cheaply. The good news is that with availability low, values are just going to increase.  So look for and buy the very best examples you can find (originals, not the "rescales" or reground blades) - even if you have to pay more than you ever have before.  Wet shaving and straight razor collecting is growing.  Even the DE razor market, which used to be completely dead (you could easily find Gillette "Fat Boys" for a couple of dollars.) is red hot.  Mark my words - we haven't come close to seeing the top of this market.  If you are an investor, buy now and put a lot of money in your pocket later. If you are a collector, buy the things you love while you can  - your opportunities are shrinking. 

In the meantime, I will, as always, keep my eyes open for all of you - picking up both the good and the common stuff when I can.

Going Green By Shaving Straight- Four Alternatives To Disposable Plastic Razors & Cartridges

Going Green By Shaving Straight

Four Alternatives To Disposable Plastic Razors & Cartridges

By John H. Tischler

(Note: The author sells vintage & antique straight razors & safety razors)

There is something that unites men of all nationalities, colors, religions and sexual preferences; something as basic to our genetic code as our desire to avoid yard work – we all grow facial hair.  For the majority of us who want to remove it without having a negative impact on our fragile planet, this article was written for you.

A Close Shave For Mother Earth

Few men will argue that shaving with disposable razors (either the plastic “throw away” variety or those with disposable cartridges) isn’t bad for the environment.  The approximately 68 million men in the USA alone using plastic disposable razors produce waste that consumes an astounding 34,000,000 cubic feet of space. And this does not include the space taken up by shaving cream cans and the packaging for all that plastic.  Much of this waste is not recycled and ends up in landfills or is dumped into our oceans.  But the news gets worse – each plastic razor or cartridge requires fuel (primarily oil) to both manufacture the item itself and to power the machinery that produces them.  Throw into the mix the toxic chemicals which are either used in, or are waste products of, the manufacturing process, and the business of making, using and disposing of plastic razors becomes nasty indeed.

The High Cost Of Hair Removal

A hundred years ago, you could get a barbershop shave and a haircut for “two bits” (25 cents).  Not anymore.  Today, the cost of all that plastic, packaging and the advertising dollars spent to support the industry, really adds up.  And the cost is passed onto the consumer.  In a single year, the razors, cartridges and shaving gels/creams that you will need to keep your face smooth will cost you, on average, around $225.  This cost can be even higher of you toss your expensive cartridges at the first hint of dullness or rust.  For the sake of comparing this with other options, let’s assume that a man has an average of 68 shaving years over his lifetime; and that each year, shaving with disposable razors will cost him $225. To calculate the number of shaves in a lifetime for the remainder of this article, we will use the following formula: 68 (years) * 365 (shaves per year) = 24,820 shaves. So, in in the case of shaving with disposable razors (the Gillette Mach 3 is used in this example):

Lifetime Cost: $15,300. ($225 * 68 Years)
Cost Per Shave: $.62 per shave ($15,300 / 24820)

These costs do not account for inflation or "upgrading" the products you use over time, so the lifetime cost is likely to be higher. Of course, the total cost can decrease if you use razors of lower quality.

To sum up, shaving with disposable razors is very expensive – both in your direct costs which will only increase every year, and in the damage caused to our already stressed ecosystem.

Alternatives To Plastic Disposable Razors

Hopefully at this point, you are willing to examine the alternatives to the plastics.  Fortunately, you do have options which will both cost you less money and decrease your “carbon footprint.”  

Solution #1: Permanent Laser Hair Removal With Electrolysis

About: The desire to eliminate the burden of daily facial hair removal is nothing new, but modern technology has made it more realistic and affordable than ever.  The best known and most reliable treatment for all skin colors and types is electrolysis.  Around since the late 1800s (but significantly improved over time), electrolysis involves inserting a tiny needle into each hair follicle on the face and “zapping” the dermal papilla with electric current.  This renders that follicle permanently incapable of supporting hair growth.

Pros: Your shaving burden will be substantially decreased or even eliminated.  This also makes this method among the “greenest” of all the solutions presented here.

Cons: Each time that needle is inserted into a hair follicle and electricity is passed through it, it hurts.  According to an article in Men’s Health magazine, the average man has approximately 30,000 follicles on his face.  If each and every one of them are “zapped” with electricity, that is PAIN x 30,000. That's some serious agony. As if that were not a sufficient deterrent, an interesting article on the topic of facial hair removal from the transgender community, reports that it can take from 1 to 4 years of treatment to finish the job.  That’s a whole lot of pain just to avoid shaving.   Treatments cost between $25 and $250 each, depending on how many follicles are treated, where you live and the experience of the technician (and trust me, you don’t want someone who sucks at it.)  The whole job can take up to 4 years and cost up to $20,000.

Grade: D (for cost, time and suffering)

Solution #2: The Electric razor.

About: Electric razors have been around for decades.  It was invented in 1928 by Colonel Jacob Schick.  There are versions that work dry, others that let you use creams and lotions and even models that allow you to shave in the shower.  With daily use, a quality electric razor should last you 2-3 years before a replacement is needed or desired due to either expensive parts or the internal rechargeable battery wearing out.

Pros: Using an electric razor solves the waste problem – sort of. You aren’t throwing out plastic every day and you typically aren’t buying cans of shaving cream – all good news.  They do not consume a great deal of electricity and, if you use the car adapter that comes with some of the better razors, you will be even “greener” – although shaving while driving is not something I would recommend.

Cons: It’s true that an electric razor lasts considerably longer than plastic disposables, but you will go through quite a few of them in your lifetime.  Unless you dispose of them responsibly, these devices (the rechargeable batteries in particular) are very bad for the environment.  A good electric razor is also not cheap – a good one will set you back $100 or more.  So if you buy a new razor once every 3 years, the cost adds up.  Finally, of all the options examined here, this type of razor, hands-down, will give you the worst shave.

Final Grade: B

Solution 3:  Non-Disposable Safety Razor With Disposable Metal Blades

About:  While the identity of the inventor of the “safety razor” (a device which exposed only the shaving edge of a blade to the face) is a hot topic of debate in the shaving history community, there is little doubt as to the man who made this type of razor both practical and popular – King Camp Gillette.  The earliest safety razors did not use disposable blades, but Gillette’s did right from the start. His blades were also sharp on both sides (known as “double-edged” blades) –giving the user two sharp edges for the price of a single metal blade.  This was important, because the early “disposable” blades were not cheap.  But what really converted the male population of the United States to the Gillette razor was the fact that during WWI, the US Government issued Gillette safety razors and blades to the entirety of the armed forces and allowed them to keep their shaving kits when they were discharged.  The art of shaving was transformed virtually overnight.

Pros:  As the “runner-up” solution, the safety razor with disposable metal blades has a lot going for it.  Since the razor is permanent and typically made of metal, you can use it for years or possibly a lifetime with proper care, although you might find it fun to use and collect a variety of these razors.  And since you can always pull a fresh blade from the pack, a great shave is always close at hand.  Additionally, the thin metal disposable blades are MUCH less expensive than the plastic multi-blade cartridges – a 10 pack of Merkur blades sells on the Wed for about $5.75+ $3.99 shipping. If you can get an average of 4 shaves from each blade, that’s an average cost per shave of just 24 cents.  Plus, since you are disposing of metal rather than plastic, the carbon footprint of this solution is significantly smaller than that of plastic disposables.  A good quality safety razor from a company like Merkur will set you back $30 to $90 - a one-time expense.

Cons:  Although they produce significantly less waste than plastic disposables, this solution does generate millions of sharp, wasted metal blades every year – something I’m sure your trash collector does not appreciate.  They are not biodegradable and are likely to remain a safety hazard for decades.  Plus, fuel is used in the manufacture of the blades. What’s more, each pack of blades comes in a container made of plastic or metal which is also discarded.  Cans of shaving cream cost in manufacturing, disposal and use, unless you use shaving soap and a brush (recommended for a better shave). 

Final Grade: A-

Top Rated Solution: Shaving With A Vintage/Antique Straight Razor

About: The straight razor has been around for centuries and man has yet to produce a razor that does a better job at giving a close shave.  The “modern” (those made over the past 175 years or so) straight razor is a marvel of human engineering.  The finest razors using the best metals and the best craftsmanship came from England, Sweden, Germany and the United States.  Japan also produced some excellent straights, although the style is significantly different from “western-style” razors.  Never, ever shave with a razor made in Pakistan or India.

Pros: Using a straight razor is, by far, the “greenest” way to remove facial hair.  There are no blades to throw away.  A shaving brush (used to apply shaving soap) will, with minimal care, serve you for a decade or more.  You really have only two recurring costs – shaving soap and two professional honings per year.  If you use a good quality hard soap, you will spend around $20-$25 each year on soap.  Professional honings will set you back about $15 each.  Since it takes a week or two to get your razor back from a Honemeister, it’s a good idea to have at least two straight razors in your shaving “rotation” – ensuring that you will always have one to shave with when the other is in the “shop.”  Straight razor shaving is also good for your skin.  Kenneth Beer, M.D., a Florida Dermatologist interviewed by Men’s Health magazine says, "The low-grade friction from shaving stimulates collagen production and smoothens the skin. That's one of the reasons men typically have far fewer wrinkles than women do."  It also provides, hands-down, the best shave of any method available.  Sweet.

Cons: Most of the costs of shaving with a straight razor are paid up-front.  A high-quality straight razor can set you back $80 to $150 or more.  When you get to the very expensive razors however, you are paying more for style than you are for shaving quality.  If you buy a new razor, there is the environmental impact of production to consider – although the fact that it is done only once still puts it way ahead of safety razor blades.  But here’s a great “inside” tip – buy a vintage or antique straight razor in excellent condition.  You will pay no more than $75-$150 for a really good one and, since it is already made, your carbon footprint is zero.  Also, many of these razors have a beauty and level of craftsmanship that is scarcely found today.  You will also need a shaving brush, a leather strop and a barber’s hone.  This means that your total startup costs will be between $200 and $400. Straight razor shaving also takes some time to get used to. Your skin must become accustomed to that beneficial “low-grade friction” mentioned earlier, so you will experience quite a few nicks in the first few weeks.  But as your skin becomes “conditioned” to the straight razor and you become more skillful at using it, you will find it to be a very comfortable way to shave.  Your only “consumable” is shaving soap, but that is traditionally packaged in paper or a recyclable box.  I should warn you that straight razors can be addictive.  Many shavers end up being collectors - I have many clients who tell me that they “want to shave with a blade two centuries old.”

Summary

The two environmental "winners" here are the metal safety razor using disposable metal blades and the straight razor.  Disposable razors are an environmental disaster. Permanent hair removal is expensive and impractical. Electric razors are a big improvement over disposables, but they consume considerable resources to manufacture and leave serious toxins in the environment when disposed of.

The straight razor is the "writer's choice" in this survey for the following reasons:  

• It is the most environmentally friendly solution (especially if you use a razor that has already been made)
• Costs of ongoing use are extremely low
• The scraping of the blade is good for the skin (a quality shared by the safety razor)
• It produces the best shave

Grade: A+

I hope you find this article helpful.  It was fun to write and the fact-finding was illuminating. If you have any questions, feel free to email me at assistance@vintageshavingshoppe.com

John H. Tischler is the owner of The Vintage Shaving Shoppe, L.L.C., located in the Philadelphia PA metropolitan area. The Vintage Shaving Shoppe has sold vintage and antique straight razors, safety razors, shaving supplies and sharpening products to clients worldwide.  At any one given time, approximately 1,000 razors are kept in stock ranging in age from 60 to 200 years old.  The store website is www.vintageshavingshoppe.com.  Due to the size of our stock, most razors are not shown on the website. Honing services are also provided.  Contact the author at assistance@vintageshavingshoppe.com

@ John H. Tischler & Vintage Shaving Shoppe, LLC. 2011

Today's Haul! RARE Razors For you!

Took a ride out to Adamstown today.  Straight razors are getting harder to find every time I look for them.  Even broken ones are getting scarce.  So I didn't find a lot.  But I did find some REALLY great stuff, which I hope to have pictures of soon.  They include : TWO MINT Sheffield Ivory Handled "cleavers" in Original Case...RARE early Round Alloy Case Schick Injector....Wade & Butcher Fancy "Ready For Use Steel Set" Razor with worked spine...Geo. Wostenholm Doubly Carbonized Straight Razor Framed in BRASS - SUPER RARE!

Product Review: "Buck & Beard Hand Made Damascus Steel Razor" - Stay Away...Far Away!

Like many folks I know, I've always wanted a true Damascus razor.  So when I saw one on eBay, I was hopeful that this razor would be something special. It certainly looked cool enough in the pictures. When I received it, the lack of quality was immediately apparent. As you know, I typically buy antique and vintage razors (almost a thousand of them to date). I have bought a new razor, not counting this one, once. When I buy something modern, I expect perfection, or at least something close to it. These are my observations on the razor & sleeve that I received:

• Rusty rivet backs on the leather pouch
• Poor craftsmanship on the scales
• ONE of the screw-in pins has a lock washer on the outside. Looks like it was done to compensate for a blade that would not close properly
• Significant crack at the end of one of the scales
• Poorly fitting, misshapen wedge
• Rust on the edges of one of the internal washers which seem to be made of cheap steel
• Steel itself seems to be of low quality and weight - not what one would expect of a true Damascus blade
• As shipped, the edge had the bite of a butter knife. I was NOT expecting shave ready, but this one couldn't cut cardboard
• The blade does not lay flat on the hone, so there is no way that it will produce an even edge. The only way to hone it would be to apply tape strategically to the spine in multiple locations in an attempt to make it lay flat. You should not have to do this on a "hand-crafted" American made razor.

I was honestly hoping for something really nice and was very disappointed for the reasons above. Quality control has to be just awful. If this razor is truly American made, they must have imported the craftsmanship levels from Pakistan.  Yes folks, it is THAT bad.

This is one razor that is most DEFINITELY going back to the seller.  Negative feedback regarding the quality of the razor will be left on eBay in the hopes that others will see it and avoid this product.

The seller is bucknbeardamascusknives

Stay away from this product.

New lot of old straight razors to be posted on eBay

With so much focus on our successful launch of sharpening supplies, we have been neglecting our straight razor business.  No more! Starting this Sunday, we will begin listing straight razors (mostly shave-ready), many of which you haven't seen before, on eBay.  They will include: Wade & Butcher, Clark & Hall, Peculiar, Cougar and a unique carbonized steel IXL Wostenholm!

You Lucky Guys! Some Of The Best Razors We Have Ever Had.

I envy you guys sometimes.  You actually get to keep the really cool razors - I simply find them and get them to the right people.  If you are a serious collector, you have probably noticed that the more striking examples are getting harder to come by.  And since I am constantly looking, you would be correct.  That means that when I am lucky enough to find them, I have to pay more.  This means you have to pay more.  Tough break, but that's the way it is - supply and demand.

The good news is that for those of you who are buying for both love and investment purposes, your foresight is starting to pay dividends.  And there is still a long ways to go.  In my opinion, prices are still low - just not as low as they once were.  Now that much of the best stuff is in collections, you should be on the lookout for excellent examples of the art - even if you have to pay top dollar for them.  The ones that I project will increase the most in value are original early examples.  I happen to have picked up two of these just this past weekend.  What was particularly gratifying was that they were not just plain razors in horn scales - most common in that period.  Both of them are original tortoise shell, but very different.  The first of the two I would place at the end of the 18th century.  It is a Clark & Hall and it was designed as a showpiece.  What do I mean by that? Well it has several features that had nothing to do with the practical utility of the razor, including

• Fancy washers on both pins
• Polished tortoise shell scales
• Mirror finished blade
• 3 pewter shields 

 These are all features that were not necessary or commonplace and they cost the buyer a good deal more than an average razor would.  To my delight, the blade had retained its original shape and finish - it was not reground  or reshaped as so many of the period were.  It is solid enough to make shave ready and I will have it up for sale once I am done.  As is our tradition, nothing else will be done to this piece of history.  Private purchase inquiries are welcome.

The other razor is also of the fancier variety - having iron pins with fancy washers and also in tortoise shell. This one has no pewter shields and the blade is not mirrored.  It has no manufacturer and it marked "Cast Steel."  It is in excellent condition and I would put it VERY early 19th century - no later than 1815.  Honing this wedge to shave-readiness will likely take a couple of hours, but I look forward to it.

I should have pictures in a few days.

Getting Closer To The Great Razor Giveaway!

At 21 blog followers, we are only 4 Followers away from the razor giveaway!  I sincerely hope that we get there before the holidays arrive, so that someone who may want to give it as a gift, will be able to do so.  And that someone for whom it would be a special personal treat, will be able to get it as soon as possible.

With most of my attention focused on the Little Stropper product line launch, I'm afraid I haven't given as much attention to my razors as usual.  I am working now to rectify that oversight and to get more shave-ready straights out for sale ASAP.  I have hundreds of them that are shave-ready, but I do need to take pictures.  If you have any special requests - a particular brand, style or type of razor that you would love to own, please send us an email at assistance@vintageshavingshoppe.com and we will be sure to find what you need.

The Vintage Shaving Shoppe & Little Stropper Get Vocal With Our Toll Free Number!

In order to provide even better support to our current and prospective customers, Vintage Shaving Shoppe and Little Stropper can now be reached by phone - toll free at 800-636-9670.  So all of you folks that would rather talk to a person rather than send an email, now have a number at which to do it.

Speak to you soon!

Little Stropper Website & Store Finally Up And Running!

It's been rough, but I FINALLY have our NEW Little Stropper website up and running WITH a dedicated store! That's right....no more going through eBay to buy our products. So check out the store and make your purchase today!

New Product Launch! Read Carefully For FREE Offer!

Dear Client,

This has been a very exciting week at The Vintage Shaving Shoppe!  Now that we have finally filed for our patent, we can let the "cat out of the bag" on the newest and most innovative product available for maintaining your straight razors and fine knives. The Magnetic StropBox^TM along with our Magnetic StropTops^TM, part of our Little Stropper^TM brand, provide a low cost, easy to use system for keeping your blades shave-ready longer than ever.  And you will never have to look for a place to hang a strop again! For a long time, I have been telling my customers about the benefits of stropping on surfaces with varying degrees of abrasiveness.  But that used to mean having a whole bunch of strops hanging in the bathroom – not a wife-pleaser.  It’s also a very expensive way to maintain your razors, with strops running $30 to $70 each.

Those days are over.

Using the power of flexible magnets, the Patent Pending Magnetic StropBox^TM and Magnetic StropTops^TM create a completely swappable straight razor, knife and tool maintenance system that can be carried and used anywhere!  And since the 8.25” X 2.5” X 2.0” Magnetic StropBox^TM unit has a sliding door on the bottom of the unit, it’s perfect for storing a razor, a shaving brush, a barber’s hone or a small tube of abrasive paste – if it fits, it is secure inside the Magnetic StropBox^TM.  And the system  couldn’t be easier to use! The top of the Magnetic StropBox^TM is covered with a vinyl magnet, similar to the kind you might find on your refrigerator.  Just apply an 8.25” X 2.5” Magnetic StropTop^TM available in fine stropping leather and 100% hard wool felt, to the top of the box and you are ready to strop.  And since each Magnetic StropTop^TM also comes adhered to a flexible magnet, changing from one Magnetic StropTopTM to another is as easy as putting a magnet on your refrigerator door (in fact, it’s a handy place to keep them)! Hard wool felt is the PERFECT surface to use with abrasive pastes and sprays, so buy one leather Magnetic StropTop^TM for final finishing and several hard wool felt Magnetic StropTops^TM pasted with different abrasives, for a COMPLETE system to keep your straight razors, knives and tools at their best.  You can apply these abrasives yourself or we can do it for you.  It is the IDEAL system for touching up that razor that seems a bit dull.

FREE OFFER: FOR A LIMITED TIME, WE ARE OFFERING OUR CLIENTS FREE PASTING OR SPRAYING OF THE STROPTOPS^TM IN DEGREES OF ABRASIVENESS FROM 2 MICRON TO .25 MICRON.  JUST PLACE YOUR ORDER AND SEND US AN EMAIL AS ASSISTANCE@VINTAGESHAVINGSHOPPE.COM INDICATING THE STROPTOPS^TM YOU WANT TREATED AND WHAT GRIT YOU WISH US TO USE.  WE HAVE 2 MICRON, 1.5 MICRON, 1 MICRON, .50 MICRON AND .25 MICRON DIAMOND SPRAY.

TWO WAYS TO BUY:

• If you want to buy our Magnetic StropBox^TM and Magnetic StropTops^TM “a la carte.” click HERE!
• Our package deals save you money!   Click HERE to view our packages!

A LIMITED QUANTITY HAVE BEEN MADE. PRIOR CLIENTS HAVE FIRST PRIORITY. BUY TODAY!

If you have any questions at all, please do not hesitate to email us at assistance@vintageshavingshoppe.com

 

Think About The Unthinkable & Sleep Better Tonight

You are a razor collector, a knife collector or a car collector.  You have spent countless nights, weekends, holidays and even vacations adding to and caring for your collection.

Have you ever thought that in a matter of hours...or even minutes, it could be gone?

If you are like me, just about now you are feeling a chill going up and down your spine.  Speaking personally, I have seen what happens to celluloid when it catches fire - it's scary.  And when I think about how many razors I have with celluloid scales, it's scarier still.  Knife collectors will be able to relate to this as well.  But you don't have to collect cutlery to be concerned.  A fire, flood or theft will affect ANY collector who has poured their heart and their dollars into their collection.

This is why you should give some SERIOUS consideration to insuring whatever you collect. If you think that your homeowners insurance will cover your collection, you need to take a very close look at your policy and speak with your agent.  More than likely, coverage will be EXTREMELY limited - both in dollar amounts and in the hazards against which you are protected.  So if you are a serious collector, you should be considering specialized insurance that will financially protect you against all hazards and for the full value of your collection.

Nothing will compensate you for the heartbreak of having your collection destroyed by fire or stolen; but with the right insurance from the right company, you will at least have the money to start rebuilding what you have lost.  For most collectibles, American Collectors Insurance is an excellent choice.  Their premiums are reasonable and their underwriter (the company actually responsible for providing the insurance and paying the claims) is rated "A" (Excellent) by AM Best - the top independent insurance rating agency.  As a licensed insurance agent, these rating are essential to deciding where to place my client's insurance.  I do not place anyone with a company rated below "A-."

American Collectors doesn't insure EVERY type of collectible (they don't insurance coins and stamps, for example), but they would certainly be one of my first recommendations to any collector looking for peace of mind and financial protection.  You can reach them at their website or give them a call at 1-800-360-2277.

Make the call and sleep better tomorrow night.

The Joy Of Parts – Why I love My Razor Junkyard

In addition to my line of shave ready razors, I buy a significant number of broken razors that have no apparent value or historic importance (keep in mind that some razors, even when broken, DO have value).  

Why would I pay for broken razors?

These razors that would normally be discarded are a valuable source of material for someone who studies razors and repairs them.  I have written several articles on razor restoration and how I am generally opposed to it, beyond a basic cleaning and honing.  However, a blade with broken scales or a pair of scales holding a broken or badly corroded blade will never be a shaver, nor, unless it is something truly special, will it ever be a collector’s piece. 

When I DO make repairs, I only use parts that are original to that type of razor.  And given the thousands of different makes of razors out there, one needs MANY parts to have a chance at having the right one needed for an authentic repair.  If I cannot repair a razor authentically, I don’t do it.  That’s why broken razors are so valuable to me.  They provide the source of genuine parts that I need to make broken razors whole again.  In a way, I am running a personal, automobile-style junkyard for razors.  Until I find original parts, beautiful blades sit in individual baskets waiting for scales; scales await blades and proper collars.  The only items that absolutely cannot be salvaged from an old razor are the pins.  That is why I am against the removal of pins for the purpose of cleaning a razor.  Once they are out, a new one must be fashioned to replace it.

Just like in a good junkyard, organization of your parts is important.  I organize them by the GOOD part in the broken “whole” razor.  This leaves me with two primary bins:

• ·         Good blades with broken scales
• ·         Good scales with broken/badly damaged blades

 I try to keep the broken razor whole until I need the part, as it provides me with valuable information about what goes with what.  I also keep a few other bins of particularly tiny items:

• ·         Pivot pin washers
• ·         Cut pivot pins (as examples)
• ·         Pin collars
• ·         Wedges

Even these items I try to keep together as long as possible.  One thing I do NOT keep are celluloid scales which have begun to decay.  If I want to document the blade that went with such scales, I will photograph it.  Decaying celluloid is too much of a hazard to metal to warrant keeping anywhere near your collection.  But be careful how you dispose of celluloid scales…they go up like the Hindenburg when exposed to extreme heat or flame.  If you feel the need to have this demonstrated, take a SMALL piece of celluloid and clip it to the end of a hemostat or tongs, then light a match to it and stand back – the ensuing conflagration is impressive (A completely unrelated, but equally cool fire can be made by touching the contacts of a 9 volt battery to 0000 steel wool, but this will be the subject of another article).  Make sure you are outside or standing near a sink when you try either demonstration.

It gives me a great deal of personal satisfaction to restore a razor to its original condition.  If you feel the same, you might want to start a razor “junkyard” of your own.

What Is A "Shave-Ready," "Shave-Tested" Straight Razor? A Buyer's Guide

The Vintage Shaving Shoppe was one of the earlier eBay sellers to offer "shave-ready," "shave-tested" razors.  Now there seem to be lots of folks slapping that label on their razor auctions...and not on eBay alone.  You are starting to see them almost everywhere on the Web  And you can bet your shaving nicks that if you polled each one of these sellers, they would all come back with slightly different (in some cases, radically different) definitions of the terms.  You owe it to your face and your wallet to query the folks you buy from with regards to THEIR definitions.

While I cannot speak for other sellers, in the interest of clarity, I wish to go on-record about what those terms mean to me and, by extension, if you are my customer, what they will mean when you buy a razor from me.

Shave-Ready
The term "shave-ready" is bandied about in the wet-shaving world as casually as politicians promise lower taxes.  On its face, it is pretty straightforward: it means a razor that is ready to shave with.  But what does this mean?  If you order a nice new Dovo razor off of Amazon (or off of any number of other reputable commercial sites), you probably assume that it is ready to shave with.  The little brochure inside the "coffin" (the box that holds the razor) will even say so.  So you are good to go.  Right?  WRONG!  I speak from painful experience.

When, on a cold December afternoon, I decide to start shaving with a straight razor, I went online and  purchased a nice new Dovo (a fine German brand) straight razor, a badger brush and a puck of shave soap, went through an elaborate pre-shave routine, including hot towels from the microwave (not recommended), just to make sure that my skin was ready for this new experience.

I proceeded to get one of the harshest, bloodiest shaves of my life.

Now I have to put at least some of the blame on my inexperience and the fact that I was shaving skin yet unused to a straight razor, but still, the razor was catching on my skin and simply not cutting hair as a straight razor should.  After querying several knowledgeable straight razor shavers, I was asked where I purchased my razor.  Next, I was asked "who made it shave-ready and was it shave-tested?"  At that time, these terms were unfamiliar to me.  I replied that I bought it through Amazon from the manufacturer and both the ad and the product insert assured me that the razor was ready for use.

I could almost see the virtual sideways head-shaking when I provided this answer.  It was time for me to get an education.  I was told that razors straight from the factory may be very, very sharp...but they will not provide a close, comfortable shave.  In order to do that, the razor's edge must be "finished" on a combination of extremely fine honing stones and strops (normally, long strips of leather which may or may not be treated with a mildly abrasive paste).  You see, the edges of ALL sharp metal objects are serrated to some degree.  While you can see the serration clearly on most knives, they can be quite literally microscopic on a straight razor.  The fact that they are very small, doesn't mean that they aren't there.  The process of hand-honing a razor on those superfine stones (My finest stone is 30,000 grit. To put that in perspective, a knife will be considered sufficiently sharpened at 1,000 grit), and then on leather, is designed to make those serrations as small as humanly possible.  A factory-honed razor leaves serrations that are way too large for a comfortable shave.  The result is that "Nighmare On Elm Street" look that you were not seeking.

So when I say that a razor I sell is shave-ready, I mean that I have honed it BY HAND on a progression of extremely fine, completely flat stones made specifically for honing razors. I then further reduce the size of the serrations by stropping the blade on diamond-pasted strops made of balsa wood (they are not always leather).  Then, I use a hard wool felt hanging strop lightly pasted with Aluminum Oxide and, finally, on a fine leather strop.

I will not use a razor on my face that has not gone through the aforementioned procedure and I would not expect you to either.

Shave-Tested
There is no machine that, to my knowledge, can shave-test a razor.  But before I get ahead of myself, let me explain what I mean when I say that a razor is "shave-tested."  It means that I have personally shaved with the razor and it has produced a close, comfortable shave.  This really isn't complicated.  You simply shave with the razor in all three directions:

• With The Grain (WTG): This means in the direction of hair growth
• Across The Grain (XTG): This means shaving at an approximate 90 degree angle to the direction of hair growth
• Against The Grain (ATG): This means shaving against the direction of hair growth

If the razor shaves closely and comfortably in all three directions on both sides of my face using both sides of the razor, it passes.  If it fails any of these tests, it goes back to the hones, not into a shipping envelope, until it passes.  All shave-tested razor are, of course, thoroughly sterilized in Barbicide before they are sent out to customers.

So what shave-tested means to me is that a knowledgable human being has actually shaved with the razor.  Trust me, there are no people at even the finest commercial razor factories that are actually shaving with every razor before they ship.

So now that you have some knowledge, you know what questions to ask the folks that want to sell you a razor.  If they react defensively or evasively, move one to another seller.  Anyone worth their salt will be pleased to show off their pre-sales preparations.

Question: What Is The Most Valuable Pennsylvania-Made Razor?

I received this question today from a friend of mine.  It's a very tough question to answer.  You see, there were SO many "mom and pop" razor companies (most of them importing, but some of them manufacturing), some of which went in and out of business the same year, it is impossible to tell who might have made the "rarest" razor.  I'm sure there are hundreds of companies overall (and dozens in PA in particular) for which there are only a couple of surviving razors left.  For example, I have a razor made by "Pennsylvania Farmer Philadelphia."  I don't know how many razors they made. I cannot find any reference to them anywhere.  It could very well be the rarest razor on earth....or someone could have a box on them in their basement that will come out someday.  Keep in mind that "rare" (meaning something of which there are very few) does not always equal valuable.  Often, it is the items that are NOT rare that are valuable because people are more familiar with them. With regards to PA companies, you had Case, Queen, Schatt & Morgan, even Wade & Butcher had a factory at the "Philadelphia Works."   There are others as well.  Since these names are well known, and there aren't a TON of their razors on the market, they tend to fetch high prices. And even with familiarity and scarcity, I am often surprised (either positively or negatively) at the price that a particular razor sells for.

All of that said, I would congratulate the writer and all those other folks out there who choose to have a theme for their collections.  Since I am a dealer, I buy almost everything to sell to collectors.  That is not a good idea for the collector, unless they want to end up on that "hoarder" show on Cable.  Sit down with yourself and select a goal for your collection.  It can be by state, maker, blade type (my choice would be "cleavers"), scale design, era, country, tang stamp, pin material or scale material.  By making this sort of choice, you will end up with a more enjoyable, coherent and valuable collection.  However, don't neglect the task of creating a handsome washroom.  In mine I have a collection of shaving mugs, around 15 old shaving brushes, barbers bottles, a few strops, a Barbicide bottle with blue Barbicide solution in it....hell I would have bought an old Koken "President" barber's chair and put it in there, but the wife won't let me rip out the tub.

Alas, such are the compromises the razor enthusiast must make.

How Much Should I Pay For My Vintage, Shave-Ready Razor?

This is a question I get asked frequently. And if you are looking for answers, forget about eBay - the uninformed buying going on there is legendary.  Let's just deal with the basics for now - a common vintage razor, from Solingen Germany or Sheffield England.  It has plain black celluloid or Bakelite scales.  It has a 4/8 or 5/8 blade which is hollow ground.  It has no rust or corrosion, although there may be some old pitting or other imperfections, but because it is shave-ready, none are allowed to affect the edge.

A basic razor of the variety indicated above should, in my opinion, sell for a minimum of $60-$70.  If that seems high to you, consider that the common everyday modern equivalent, a razor like the "Dovo Carbon Steel Half Hollow Best Quality Razor, 5/8" Black Handle" sells for $74.95 on Amazon.com.  And while a new Dovo is a good razor, I would not consider it shave-ready, although it certainly comes sharp.  The term "shave-ready" means that not only can the razor cut hair, but that it will give you a close, comfortable shave.  This can only be attained by experienced hands using a combination of stones and strops and then a shave-test (yes, one actually needs to SHAVE with the razor to ensure it is fit for service) before it is sent to the customer.  So if you wanted that Dovo to be shave ready, you would have to add around $20 to that price, which is roughly what it would cost to send that new Dovo out for a proper honing.  Plus, you would have the inconvenience of having to wait for it to be done.  And if you are like me, the idea of waiting another week to get that razor into service is unthinkable.

You might also want to consider that the 70+ year old straight razor is a collectible as well as a shaving implement.  Personally, I love the idea of shaving with old razors from Germany, England and the United States of America - the older the better.  These razors were not made as novelties - as most modern straight razors are; but as practical instruments used by men all over the world. Your great grandfather used one, as did mine.  For me, new razors simply do not have the sense of history that I crave.  You might feel differently.  And if you do, you will find yourself shopping elsewhere.

A seller of shave-ready vintage and antique straight razors, like me, has to:

• Buy the razor; 
• Store the razor;
• Determine if it CAN be made shave ready (remember, nicks or corrosion at the edge mean that the razor cannot be used);
• Remove old "gunk", rust and whatever else may be stuck to the razor or scales;
• Hone the razor to shave-readiness;
• Sterilize the blade (for me);
• Shave test the razor.  If it doesn't pass, it goes back to the hones for more work;
• Sterilize the blade again (for you);
• Photograph the razor and write a description (around 1/2 hours work);
• Sell it, paying all the fees associated with doing so;
• Ship it to you.

So if an honest seller cannot get at least $60-$70 for a common, shave ready razor, doing all of the above becomes unaffordable. The result: you don't get your classic, straight-razor shave.

Now tell me...what Gentleman can live with that?

Do You Have Razors To Sell?

 The Vintage Shaving Shoppe, in addition to selling fine vintage razors is an ENTHUSIASTIC buyer of all vintage straight razors, double-edged razors and vintage shaving items. Whether you need extra cash or would simply like to trade razors that you have for the razors you REALLY want, we provide immediate cash for your items. For more information, send us a message at assistance@vintageshavingshoppe.com