The Wade And Butcher "El Magnifico" Pressed Horn Straight Razor

Those of you who know me and who have read my postings know I have a special place in my heart reserved for Wade & Butcher straight razors.  Wade & Butcher, in its various incarnations, was one of the oldest, longest lived and best producers of shaving steel in all the history of the "modern" straight razor shave. But shaving blades were but a part of the Wade & Butcher product line.  The company was heavily involved in making all sorts of edged steel items.  A nice encapsulated history of the company and pictures of some of its extensive product line may be found here.

But I digress.  I wanted to take a moment to show you one of the "crown jewels" of the Vintage Shaving Shoppe.  This is a 7/8 "Patented Frameback" in the original box made by Wade & Butcher.  While the entire razor is a work of art, the highlight is the scales.  These are polished pressed horn with 100% of the gold lettering intact.  This is certainly a scarce straight razor in any condition, but you can spend a lifetime looking and never find one like this.  Try to keep the drooling to a minimum ;-)

Pins Are Important

Removing pins for the purpose of cleaning is absolutely forbidden in our shop, as the original pin cannot be re-installed. We, on rare occasion, replace broken scales with ones from the same era and style, but this is infrequent because we must wait, sometimes years, for a set of scales that match. We DO NOT manufacture new scales - ever.  In those cases, we retain as much of the original fastening hardware as possible, including washers and collars.  Some pin replacements are easy to detect.  You should look for:

• Top and bottom pins that are made of different materials (most common are brass and nickel silver)
• Pins using flat external washers
• Pins that look different from one another, even if they are the same material (this is not a guarantee of a replaced pin, just suspicious)

It is here that I should mention something happened frequently in the life of an old razor.  Antique razors, particularly early ones, tended to be expensive (imagine spending several days wages on a razor today). So the owner did not simply throw them away if something happened to the scales or one of the pins.  It was common for a pin to be replaced, generally with a common nail, so that the razor could continue to be used.  I find this a fascinating practice and one could build an impressive collection of such period replacements.  When we encounter razors like this, we leave them with the improvised pin.
Why does it matter when the razor is removed from the scales?  The main reason is that you can no longer be sure that the razor was original to those scales.  The scales can be a vital clue to a razors age and identity.  Replacing scales with a model never used on that razor cheats history by creating a "fantasy" piece - not a genuine collectible.

Late Night Thoughts On Old Straight Razors...A Ghost Story.

Have you ever just sat down and looked closely at a straight razor which you know hasn't seen the light of day in a century?

This is an experience I have quite often.  And looking at these old razor I sometimes feel that I can see flashes of the former owners reflected in the blades.

You could tell the folks who were in a hurry to get their shave - they tended to "lean" on the razor when honing, placing their finger on the tip of the spine as they ran the blade over the stone. Over time, of course, that part of the razor tended to be overhoned, leaving the razor narrower at the tip than the rest of the blade.  Then there is "the brute" who seemed to feel that extreme force exerted at the center of the razor would "force" the blade sharp - leaving the telltale overhoned center on the spine and, eventually a "frown" on the blade. 

Then there is the well-worn blade which is much narrower than it used to be; the hone wear is extensive but even.  Here is the sign of a man who used and loved his razor and maybe even passed it down to his son, who put yet more honest wear on it.  Then, probably around the end of WWI, it was abandoned and sat unnoticed in a drawer for decades before finally finding its way into my hands.

Maybe I am overly romanticizing a simple instrument for cutting facial hair.  But it is thoughts like these that find me generally opposed to the "extreme makeover" that seems to be so popular these days.  Actions like replacing old, structurally sound horn scales with new materials like Micarta and heavily regrinding pitted blades, just seem to take the spirit out of these once dearly loved items.

And perhaps the screaming noises we hear when putting an old razor to the grinder aren't all the mere sounds of metal giving way to rock. Or maybe it is just our imaginations running away with us in the cool, dark cellar.

Something to think about when we put that blade to our throats in the morning.

Pleasant dreams :-)

Going Green By Shaving Straight- Four Alternatives To Disposable Plastic Razors & Cartridges

Going Green By Shaving Straight

Four Alternatives To Disposable Plastic Razors & Cartridges

By John H. Tischler

(Note: The author sells vintage & antique straight razors & safety razors)

There is something that unites men of all nationalities, colors, religions and sexual preferences; something as basic to our genetic code as our desire to avoid yard work – we all grow facial hair.  For the majority of us who want to remove it without having a negative impact on our fragile planet, this article was written for you.

A Close Shave For Mother Earth

Few men will argue that shaving with disposable razors (either the plastic “throw away” variety or those with disposable cartridges) isn’t bad for the environment.  The approximately 68 million men in the USA alone using plastic disposable razors produce waste that consumes an astounding 34,000,000 cubic feet of space. And this does not include the space taken up by shaving cream cans and the packaging for all that plastic.  Much of this waste is not recycled and ends up in landfills or is dumped into our oceans.  But the news gets worse – each plastic razor or cartridge requires fuel (primarily oil) to both manufacture the item itself and to power the machinery that produces them.  Throw into the mix the toxic chemicals which are either used in, or are waste products of, the manufacturing process, and the business of making, using and disposing of plastic razors becomes nasty indeed.

The High Cost Of Hair Removal

A hundred years ago, you could get a barbershop shave and a haircut for “two bits” (25 cents).  Not anymore.  Today, the cost of all that plastic, packaging and the advertising dollars spent to support the industry, really adds up.  And the cost is passed onto the consumer.  In a single year, the razors, cartridges and shaving gels/creams that you will need to keep your face smooth will cost you, on average, around $225.  This cost can be even higher of you toss your expensive cartridges at the first hint of dullness or rust.  For the sake of comparing this with other options, let’s assume that a man has an average of 68 shaving years over his lifetime; and that each year, shaving with disposable razors will cost him $225. To calculate the number of shaves in a lifetime for the remainder of this article, we will use the following formula: 68 (years) * 365 (shaves per year) = 24,820 shaves. So, in in the case of shaving with disposable razors (the Gillette Mach 3 is used in this example):

Lifetime Cost: $15,300. ($225 * 68 Years)
Cost Per Shave: $.62 per shave ($15,300 / 24820)

These costs do not account for inflation or "upgrading" the products you use over time, so the lifetime cost is likely to be higher. Of course, the total cost can decrease if you use razors of lower quality.

To sum up, shaving with disposable razors is very expensive – both in your direct costs which will only increase every year, and in the damage caused to our already stressed ecosystem.

Alternatives To Plastic Disposable Razors

Hopefully at this point, you are willing to examine the alternatives to the plastics.  Fortunately, you do have options which will both cost you less money and decrease your “carbon footprint.”  

Solution #1: Permanent Laser Hair Removal With Electrolysis

About: The desire to eliminate the burden of daily facial hair removal is nothing new, but modern technology has made it more realistic and affordable than ever.  The best known and most reliable treatment for all skin colors and types is electrolysis.  Around since the late 1800s (but significantly improved over time), electrolysis involves inserting a tiny needle into each hair follicle on the face and “zapping” the dermal papilla with electric current.  This renders that follicle permanently incapable of supporting hair growth.

Pros: Your shaving burden will be substantially decreased or even eliminated.  This also makes this method among the “greenest” of all the solutions presented here.

Cons: Each time that needle is inserted into a hair follicle and electricity is passed through it, it hurts.  According to an article in Men’s Health magazine, the average man has approximately 30,000 follicles on his face.  If each and every one of them are “zapped” with electricity, that is PAIN x 30,000. That's some serious agony. As if that were not a sufficient deterrent, an interesting article on the topic of facial hair removal from the transgender community, reports that it can take from 1 to 4 years of treatment to finish the job.  That’s a whole lot of pain just to avoid shaving.   Treatments cost between $25 and $250 each, depending on how many follicles are treated, where you live and the experience of the technician (and trust me, you don’t want someone who sucks at it.)  The whole job can take up to 4 years and cost up to $20,000.

Grade: D (for cost, time and suffering)

Solution #2: The Electric razor.

About: Electric razors have been around for decades.  It was invented in 1928 by Colonel Jacob Schick.  There are versions that work dry, others that let you use creams and lotions and even models that allow you to shave in the shower.  With daily use, a quality electric razor should last you 2-3 years before a replacement is needed or desired due to either expensive parts or the internal rechargeable battery wearing out.

Pros: Using an electric razor solves the waste problem – sort of. You aren’t throwing out plastic every day and you typically aren’t buying cans of shaving cream – all good news.  They do not consume a great deal of electricity and, if you use the car adapter that comes with some of the better razors, you will be even “greener” – although shaving while driving is not something I would recommend.

Cons: It’s true that an electric razor lasts considerably longer than plastic disposables, but you will go through quite a few of them in your lifetime.  Unless you dispose of them responsibly, these devices (the rechargeable batteries in particular) are very bad for the environment.  A good electric razor is also not cheap – a good one will set you back $100 or more.  So if you buy a new razor once every 3 years, the cost adds up.  Finally, of all the options examined here, this type of razor, hands-down, will give you the worst shave.

Final Grade: B

Solution 3:  Non-Disposable Safety Razor With Disposable Metal Blades

About:  While the identity of the inventor of the “safety razor” (a device which exposed only the shaving edge of a blade to the face) is a hot topic of debate in the shaving history community, there is little doubt as to the man who made this type of razor both practical and popular – King Camp Gillette.  The earliest safety razors did not use disposable blades, but Gillette’s did right from the start. His blades were also sharp on both sides (known as “double-edged” blades) –giving the user two sharp edges for the price of a single metal blade.  This was important, because the early “disposable” blades were not cheap.  But what really converted the male population of the United States to the Gillette razor was the fact that during WWI, the US Government issued Gillette safety razors and blades to the entirety of the armed forces and allowed them to keep their shaving kits when they were discharged.  The art of shaving was transformed virtually overnight.

Pros:  As the “runner-up” solution, the safety razor with disposable metal blades has a lot going for it.  Since the razor is permanent and typically made of metal, you can use it for years or possibly a lifetime with proper care, although you might find it fun to use and collect a variety of these razors.  And since you can always pull a fresh blade from the pack, a great shave is always close at hand.  Additionally, the thin metal disposable blades are MUCH less expensive than the plastic multi-blade cartridges – a 10 pack of Merkur blades sells on the Wed for about $5.75+ $3.99 shipping. If you can get an average of 4 shaves from each blade, that’s an average cost per shave of just 24 cents.  Plus, since you are disposing of metal rather than plastic, the carbon footprint of this solution is significantly smaller than that of plastic disposables.  A good quality safety razor from a company like Merkur will set you back $30 to $90 - a one-time expense.

Cons:  Although they produce significantly less waste than plastic disposables, this solution does generate millions of sharp, wasted metal blades every year – something I’m sure your trash collector does not appreciate.  They are not biodegradable and are likely to remain a safety hazard for decades.  Plus, fuel is used in the manufacture of the blades. What’s more, each pack of blades comes in a container made of plastic or metal which is also discarded.  Cans of shaving cream cost in manufacturing, disposal and use, unless you use shaving soap and a brush (recommended for a better shave). 

Final Grade: A-

Top Rated Solution: Shaving With A Vintage/Antique Straight Razor

About: The straight razor has been around for centuries and man has yet to produce a razor that does a better job at giving a close shave.  The “modern” (those made over the past 175 years or so) straight razor is a marvel of human engineering.  The finest razors using the best metals and the best craftsmanship came from England, Sweden, Germany and the United States.  Japan also produced some excellent straights, although the style is significantly different from “western-style” razors.  Never, ever shave with a razor made in Pakistan or India.

Pros: Using a straight razor is, by far, the “greenest” way to remove facial hair.  There are no blades to throw away.  A shaving brush (used to apply shaving soap) will, with minimal care, serve you for a decade or more.  You really have only two recurring costs – shaving soap and two professional honings per year.  If you use a good quality hard soap, you will spend around $20-$25 each year on soap.  Professional honings will set you back about $15 each.  Since it takes a week or two to get your razor back from a Honemeister, it’s a good idea to have at least two straight razors in your shaving “rotation” – ensuring that you will always have one to shave with when the other is in the “shop.”  Straight razor shaving is also good for your skin.  Kenneth Beer, M.D., a Florida Dermatologist interviewed by Men’s Health magazine says, "The low-grade friction from shaving stimulates collagen production and smoothens the skin. That's one of the reasons men typically have far fewer wrinkles than women do."  It also provides, hands-down, the best shave of any method available.  Sweet.

Cons: Most of the costs of shaving with a straight razor are paid up-front.  A high-quality straight razor can set you back $80 to $150 or more.  When you get to the very expensive razors however, you are paying more for style than you are for shaving quality.  If you buy a new razor, there is the environmental impact of production to consider – although the fact that it is done only once still puts it way ahead of safety razor blades.  But here’s a great “inside” tip – buy a vintage or antique straight razor in excellent condition.  You will pay no more than $75-$150 for a really good one and, since it is already made, your carbon footprint is zero.  Also, many of these razors have a beauty and level of craftsmanship that is scarcely found today.  You will also need a shaving brush, a leather strop and a barber’s hone.  This means that your total startup costs will be between $200 and $400. Straight razor shaving also takes some time to get used to. Your skin must become accustomed to that beneficial “low-grade friction” mentioned earlier, so you will experience quite a few nicks in the first few weeks.  But as your skin becomes “conditioned” to the straight razor and you become more skillful at using it, you will find it to be a very comfortable way to shave.  Your only “consumable” is shaving soap, but that is traditionally packaged in paper or a recyclable box.  I should warn you that straight razors can be addictive.  Many shavers end up being collectors - I have many clients who tell me that they “want to shave with a blade two centuries old.”

Summary

The two environmental "winners" here are the metal safety razor using disposable metal blades and the straight razor.  Disposable razors are an environmental disaster. Permanent hair removal is expensive and impractical. Electric razors are a big improvement over disposables, but they consume considerable resources to manufacture and leave serious toxins in the environment when disposed of.

The straight razor is the "writer's choice" in this survey for the following reasons:  

• It is the most environmentally friendly solution (especially if you use a razor that has already been made)
• Costs of ongoing use are extremely low
• The scraping of the blade is good for the skin (a quality shared by the safety razor)
• It produces the best shave

Grade: A+

I hope you find this article helpful.  It was fun to write and the fact-finding was illuminating. If you have any questions, feel free to email me at assistance@vintageshavingshoppe.com

John H. Tischler is the owner of The Vintage Shaving Shoppe, L.L.C., located in the Philadelphia PA metropolitan area. The Vintage Shaving Shoppe has sold vintage and antique straight razors, safety razors, shaving supplies and sharpening products to clients worldwide.  At any one given time, approximately 1,000 razors are kept in stock ranging in age from 60 to 200 years old.  The store website is www.vintageshavingshoppe.com.  Due to the size of our stock, most razors are not shown on the website. Honing services are also provided.  Contact the author at assistance@vintageshavingshoppe.com

@ John H. Tischler & Vintage Shaving Shoppe, LLC. 2011

Lusting After Ivory Wedges? Moss & Gambles 7/8 Ivory Wedges In Box!

For all of you folks who have yet to see a perfect pair of large Ivory Scaled 7/8 Wedges, check out these beauties!  They were made by Moss & Gambles of Sheffield at the Franklin Works. A careful examination of the razors would put them in the late 19th century. Moss & Gambles was at Franklin Works and in operation from about 1860 to 1911.

These razors were truly an expensive top-of-the line pair, both in their time and now.

Today's Haul! RARE Razors For you!

Took a ride out to Adamstown today.  Straight razors are getting harder to find every time I look for them.  Even broken ones are getting scarce.  So I didn't find a lot.  But I did find some REALLY great stuff, which I hope to have pictures of soon.  They include : TWO MINT Sheffield Ivory Handled "cleavers" in Original Case...RARE early Round Alloy Case Schick Injector....Wade & Butcher Fancy "Ready For Use Steel Set" Razor with worked spine...Geo. Wostenholm Doubly Carbonized Straight Razor Framed in BRASS - SUPER RARE!

Product Review: "Buck & Beard Hand Made Damascus Steel Razor" - Stay Away...Far Away!

Like many folks I know, I've always wanted a true Damascus razor.  So when I saw one on eBay, I was hopeful that this razor would be something special. It certainly looked cool enough in the pictures. When I received it, the lack of quality was immediately apparent. As you know, I typically buy antique and vintage razors (almost a thousand of them to date). I have bought a new razor, not counting this one, once. When I buy something modern, I expect perfection, or at least something close to it. These are my observations on the razor & sleeve that I received:

• Rusty rivet backs on the leather pouch
• Poor craftsmanship on the scales
• ONE of the screw-in pins has a lock washer on the outside. Looks like it was done to compensate for a blade that would not close properly
• Significant crack at the end of one of the scales
• Poorly fitting, misshapen wedge
• Rust on the edges of one of the internal washers which seem to be made of cheap steel
• Steel itself seems to be of low quality and weight - not what one would expect of a true Damascus blade
• As shipped, the edge had the bite of a butter knife. I was NOT expecting shave ready, but this one couldn't cut cardboard
• The blade does not lay flat on the hone, so there is no way that it will produce an even edge. The only way to hone it would be to apply tape strategically to the spine in multiple locations in an attempt to make it lay flat. You should not have to do this on a "hand-crafted" American made razor.

I was honestly hoping for something really nice and was very disappointed for the reasons above. Quality control has to be just awful. If this razor is truly American made, they must have imported the craftsmanship levels from Pakistan.  Yes folks, it is THAT bad.

This is one razor that is most DEFINITELY going back to the seller.  Negative feedback regarding the quality of the razor will be left on eBay in the hopes that others will see it and avoid this product.

The seller is bucknbeardamascusknives

Stay away from this product.

New lot of old straight razors to be posted on eBay

With so much focus on our successful launch of sharpening supplies, we have been neglecting our straight razor business.  No more! Starting this Sunday, we will begin listing straight razors (mostly shave-ready), many of which you haven't seen before, on eBay.  They will include: Wade & Butcher, Clark & Hall, Peculiar, Cougar and a unique carbonized steel IXL Wostenholm!